Written: Monday 12/16/2024
After a long week of searching, we finally found an apartment! We showed up for a tour last Wednesday morning, not quite knowing what to expect, but as soon as Jamie and I walked in, we were sold. It’s a fully furnished studio, and the best part by far is the balcony with its sea view. We’re so excited about all the sunrises and sunsets we’ll get to enjoy on our tiny (and I mean tiny) balcony. We feel blessed with how everything worked out and are relieved to finally settle into a place after living out of a suitcase for almost a month. We toured the apartment around noon on Wednesday, and by 7 that evening, we had signed the papers and started moving in. It was a whirlwind, but we’re grateful to have it all figured out so we could return from Vienna and have a home waiting for us. Here's some pics of our apartment!
On Thursday morning, we left early for the airport, and by noon, we were in Vienna! I had a window seat and was mesmerized by the view as we flew directly over the Dolomites. When we arrived in Vienna, we were immediately impressed by how clean everything was. The trains were spotless and silent, the subway system was easy to navigate, and there weren’t any ads—just art. The people were all well-dressed and polite. As we walked to our Airbnb, we noticed how safe everything felt and how immaculate the streets and buildings were. Along the way, we stopped for schnitzel, which I had never tried before but loved. The guys at the shop were so friendly and couldn’t stop talking about how much they love the Utah Jazz haha.
Once we got to the Airbnb, Jamie and I had to work for the rest of the evening, but we took a break at dinner time and went to a nearby Christmas market. We weren’t sure what to expect, but when we got off the subway and rounded the corner, we were blown away by how beautiful it was. Our first move was to get some sausages at "Wiener Wonderland," along with some berry punch that felt like drinking a warm, festive hug. At one point, Jamie, with a sausage in one hand and punch in the other, turned around to see the stunning city hall and Christmas tree. He had what could only be described as a spiritual Christmas moment—a tear may have even ran down his face. We spent the evening wandering through the booths, which sold everything from wooden toys to puzzles, ornaments, and sweet treats. After soaking it all in, we headed back to work, excited for the weekend ahead.
We had originally planned to meet up with Sam, McKay (and their daughters Stella and Margot), and Claire but Sam texted that evening to let us know they were at the hospital with Stella, who wasn’t feeling well. They hoped to come the next morning but ultimately decided to stay home since Stella wasn’t improving. We were disappointed since we’d been looking forward to the weekend together, but we were still excited to spend time with Claire.
Later that evening, we met Claire at the train station and had a great time catching up and hearing about her life in London! For breakfast the next morning, we went to a little Turkish place that was beyond delicious. Claire and I both got a tomato-egg dish with sausage, while Jamie had a sampler plate full of amazing Turkish flavors. Afterward, we strolled through the main downtown area and visited another Christmas market, where we got more punch. Jamie and I had to work for a few hours that afternoon, so we headed back while Claire kept exploring. Later, we reunited and returned to the first market for more sausages and punch at Wiener Wonderland. That night, we wandered through the markets for nearly three hours, people-watching and admiring the booths. It was freezing, so Claire and I bought matching scarves, and Jamie found a good one too. Bundled up, we were ready for the ultimate Christmas weekend.
Saturday was museum day. We started with traditional beef goulash, which was amazing but left us all in a food coma. Determined to walk it off, we headed to our first museum and explored a Rembrandt exhibit. The illusions in his work were captivating, especially "The Girl in the Frame," where he painted her as though she were stepping out of the frame. I loved the simplicity and the way the light played on her face, as well as the rich reds and intricate details in her clothing. The museum also featured Vermeer’s works and Jamie’s favorite, Caravaggio.
After a quick market break, we went to the Belvedere Palace, which housed Klimt’s iconic The Kiss. We all agreed it was, in fact, a consensual kiss. The museum also surprised us with pieces by Monet and Van Gogh. By the end of the day, we’d hit our museum quota and were ready for dinner. Unfortunately, the Austrian restaurant we’d planned to visit didn’t take reservations, and after waiting an hour, a flood of people with reservations got seated ahead of us. Starving, we abandoned ship and found a Vietnamese restaurant down the street—which turned out to be incredible. The owner from Saigon was so kind, and the food was amazing.
On Sunday, we thought we were heading to a boys’ choir concert but discovered it was a holy mass instead. It was held in a church at one of the main palaces, which was cool, but our seats were in an upper room, so we ended up watching it on a screen. It felt like stake conference from the Relief Society room haha. The music was lovely, but the early morning and strong incense smell got to us, and we all dozed off.
Afterward, we grabbed brunch and hunted for apple strudel, which we eventually found—and it was delicious. We also tried a popular dish here that’s essentially chopped pancakes topped with jam and cream. Our final stop was the Schönbrunn Palace, and we definitely saved the best for last. The bright yellow palace had stunning grounds, and we hiked up to a viewpoint overlooking Vienna.The palace also had my favorite Christmas market of the trip. We wandered through the stalls, picking out ornaments and gifts for our families. Of course, we ended the day with another chimney cake, Viennese-style potatoes, and dumplings before capping off the trip with some Indian food.
Even though we had to figure out the trip last minute without Sam and McKay’s planning, we felt like we pulled off an incredible Vienna adventure. We walked over 10 miles a day, ate some of the best food we’ve ever had, and loved experiencing Christmas Vienna style. We’re already dreaming of coming back in the spring for a concert and a countryside ride (maybe even a visit to the Eagle’s Nest). Until then, we’ll be reminiscing about chimney cakes and Christmas markets.
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